|
|
 |
The Jewels of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis by Ellen Steiber |
|
Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis was, without question, one of the great
icons of the twentieth century. Wed to both an American president
and a Greek shipping magnate, she was also a mother, a book editor,
and a patron of the arts who spearheaded the fight to save New York
City’s Grand Central Station. A notoriously private person, she
inspired a veritable industry of gossip partly, I suspect, because
she handled whatever life threw at her with such incredible grace.
Whether or not it was deliberate on her part, the more she
concealed, the more of a hold she seemed to have over the public
imagination. So in April of 1996, when Sotheby’s held a three-day
auction of her estate, the response was phenomenal. It was estimated
that 40,000 people came to the presale viewings and between 74,000
and 100,000 copies of the auction catalog were sold. (The proceeds
from the catalog went to charity.) Everyone wanted a bit of Jackie,
and this was their chance to actually buy it.
I recently found one
of these catalogs in my local second-hand bookstore. Being an
admitted “gem freak,” I went straight for the jewelry section, which
takes up 329 of the catalog’s 584 pages. Actually, there are two
jewelry sections, one for her fine jewels and one for what Sotheby’s
terms her “fashion jewelry.” What is undeniable about Jacqueline
Kennedy Onassis is that she had an impeccable sense of style that
seemed both effortless and elegant. Every outfit looked exactly
right and each one was accented by the perfect piece of jewelry. She
never wore too much or too little, and nearly everything she wore
seemed to become an instant classic. Catalogs for estate sales are a
voyeur’s delight, a way of defining someone’s character by their
possessions. Of course, this is an unreliable way to try to
understand anyone, and yet the clues that fill the Sotheby’s catalog
are tantalizing: photographs of Jackie wearing these pieces, often
with someone famous in the shot; captions noting the designer or the
person who gave her the piece. But mostly, the notes on the jewelry
just describe the piece and let the reader fill in the history
behind it. And you can’t help wondering: Did she choose this piece
herself or was it given to her? Did she actually love that necklace
or did she wear it because the ambassador of some country gave it to
her and she was having dinner with him that night? It’s not only her
own taste reflected in these pieces but a lifetime of international
travel and celebrity.
On another level, the catalog is a fascinating reflection of the way
we give things value. Auction houses traditionally low-ball their
estimated prices to encourage bidding, and Sotheby’s was no
exception. Most of Mrs. Onassis’ jewelry was assigned rather modest
prices. (Keep in mind that the price of gold was far lower in 1996,
just over $400 an ounce.) Still, pieces with an estimated worth of a
few thousand dollars routinely sold for ten or even twenty times
that amount. One item not even pictured in the catalog was a strand
of 33 amber worry beads, its gold link engraved “Jackie.” Estimated
at $200-$300, it sold for $21,850. Another seemingly affordable item
was a pair of “reverse-tinted crystal intaglio fox cufflinks.” These
round cufflinks, each featuring the image of a little fox, were
estimated at $300-$400. They sold for $17,250, probably because it
was easy to imagine Jackie using them to fasten her cuffs before
setting off on a hunt. The introduction to the catalog, penned by
Caroline and John Kennedy, describes the pieces in the auction as
things that Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis “cared about,” which is the
key to what made these pieces so valuable. They represented a chance
to own a piece of history. Or perhaps the auction was simply an
extension of the ancient belief that jewelry somehow retains the
spirit of its owner: Wear a piece of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’
jewelry, and you have a chance to share in some of her glamour,
beauty, and endless mystique.
In our next part you’ll find a small sampling of the jewels that
were sold at the auction. All prices—both estimated and the actual
sale price—come from the Sotheby’s catalog,
The Estate of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis: April 23-26, 1996. All
prices are in U.S. dollars.
The Fine Jewels.
As you might expect, Mrs. Onassis owned pieces designed by the
pre-eminent jewelers of the twentieth century. Van Cleef & Arpels of
France seems to have been one of her favorites. Among the many Van
Cleef & Arpels pieces are a pair of gold earclips designed to look
like tiny Chinese masks. With an estimated worth of $600-$800, they
sold for $23,000. Van Cleef & Arpels also designed the whimsical
18-karat gold scarecrow brooch. The tiny figure, whose head is a
dyed green chalcedony cabochon, wears a top hat and scarf and is
decorated with rubies, sapphires, and diamonds. Estimated at
$1,200-$1,500, the scarecrow sold for $101,500.
An unusual pair of
hammered gold cuff bangle bracelets also came from Van Cleef &
Arpels. There’s a fabulous photo of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis
wearing them as she clasps hands with Muhammad Ali. With an
estimated worth of $1,500-$2,000, the gold bracelets sold for
$167,500. There are also several pieces by the American jewelry
designer David Webb whose bold designs were collected by socialites
and celebrities, including Elizabeth Taylor, Doris Duke, Gloria
Vanderbilt, the Duchess of Windsor, Diana Vreeland, Nan Kempner, and
Jackie’s sister, Lee Radziwell. Jackie not only had a long 18-karat
gold Webb chain necklace, but 18-karat gold and green enamel
earclips signed by Webb, which were estimated at $2,000-$3000 and
sold for $23,000. Wearing charm bracelets is a custom that may go as
far back as the ancient Egyptians who wore amulets for protection
and luck. Queen Victoria is credited with making charm bracelets
popular in the Europe, and after World War II, there was revival of
interest in them when soldiers brought home handmade trinkets for
their wives and girl friends. The idea was that each charm was
connected with a memory or an event. The catalog gives no hint of
whether Jackie’s charms were connected with events in her life, but
the bracelet had so many charms--25 in all—that they hung from both
top and bottom of the connecting gold links. Sotheby’s describes
them as being made of gold, enamels, glass, and hardstones. Among
them are a watering can, a golden fish with a turquoise eye, a
heart-shaped padlock, a slipper, a number of fruits, a tiny cowrie
shell framed in gold scrollwork, a scimitar, and a hand with a fist
(which I believe is a Figa, a Brazillian good luck charm).
Sotheby’s appraised
the bracelet as being worth $1,500 to $2,000. It sold for $68,500.
One style from the Classical and Hellenistic periods that has
remained popular is animal head” jewelry--bracelets and rings where
one or both ends are in the shape of an animal head. Mrs. Onassis
had quite a few pieces in the Classical Revival style, including a
gorgeous pair of gold “antelope head” bangles, set with tiny rubies
and sapphires. With an estimated value of $2,000-$3,000, they sold
for $28,750. One of the more spectacular pieces—and there are
many—is an emerald and diamond pendant-brooch and chain necklace.
(This means the pendant could also be worn as a brooch, and there’s
a 1992 photo of Jacqueline Onassis wearing it as a brooch as she
stood beside Rudolph Nureyev at a benefit for the American Ballet
Theater.) The brooch itself is described as lozenge-shaped with a
dark green emerald-cut emerald (approximately 18.00 karats) in the
center, surrounded by approximately 9.00 karats of diamonds. Even
the
chain for the pendant is gorgeous—each delicate rectangular gold
link is connected by two emeralds and a diamond. Appraised at
$10,000-$12,000, this piece sold for $74,000.
No one can ever really know what goes on inside another person’s
marriage. However, one thing that can be said about Jackie’s second
marriage is that Aristotle Onassis gave her the equivalent of a
royal dowry in jewels. There was a bracelet that he gave her for
Easter, tiny 18-karat gold eggs set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies,
and sapphires. The diamonds alone weighed approximately 15.00
karats, with another 13.00 karats in colored stones. Sotheby’s
estimated the bracelet’s value at $15,000-$20,000; it was sold for
$96,000.
As one of her engagement presents, Mr. Onassis gave her another
jaw-dropping trinket from Van Cleef & Arpels, an emerald and diamond
necklace, which probably has to be seen to be believed. Each of the
five pear-shaped emerald drops (totaling approximately 132.00
karats) are capped by gold and diamonds, and then each of these
drops is attached to a gold-flower set with diamonds. Valued at
$100,000-$125,000, it sold for $277,500. Presumably to go with this
necklace, he also gave her (as a Christmas present) a Van Cleef &
Arpels ring, featuring a huge cabochon emerald, weighing 61.17
karats, surround by diamonds. With an estimated worth of
$10,000-$15,000, it sold for $85,000. Jackie’s actual engagement
ring from Mr. Onassis was the Lesotho III Diamond from Harry
Winston. A marquis-shaped “potentially flawless” diamond (40.42
karats) with an estimated worth of $500,000-$600,000, it sold for
$2,587,500. Aristotle Onassis also gave her many lavish wedding
presents, including a Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond ring. The
oval faceted ruby weighed 17.68 carats and was surrounded by round
diamonds. Estimated at $20,000-$30,000, it sold for $288,500.
Another extravagant wedding present from Onassis consisted of a pair
of Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond earclips. The diamonds were
set in gold flowers, and hanging from each flower, edged by
diamonds, was a gorgeous pear-shaped ruby cabochon. Valued at
$25,000-$35,000, the earrings sold for $360,000. One of her most
spectacular wedding gifts, also from Van Cleef & Arpels—did the man
buy out the store?—was what Sotheby’s describes as a “cabochon
colored stone and diamond-pendant necklace.” The pendant features a
heart-shaped ruby cabochon with a border of emerald cabs and
diamonds, topped by a cabochon sapphire. The necklace itself is
every bit as stunning as its pendant. Each link features a cabochon
ruby, sapphire, or emerald surrounded by diamonds, so that each link
of the necklace looks like a jeweled flower. Valued at
$75,000-$100,000, it sold for $288,500. I imagine many people go
through auction catalogs and think, “If I could just buy one thing .
. . ” For me, the unspoken rule in this game of Jewelry Lust is that
the item has to be something I would actually wear. Truthfully, I
couldn’t picture myself in some of the more extravagant pieces, but
there was one pair of earrings I couldn’t help coveting. Given to
Jackie by Artemis Garofalides, Aristotle Onassis’ sister, they were
deep-red faceted tourmaline briolettes hanging from amethysts set in
matte 18-karat gold. Estimated at a modest $800-$1,000, they sold
for $34,500.
Another piece whose beauty and simplicity fascinated me was a ring
that dating from the 19th century—a heart-shaped garnet carbuncle
surrounded by old-mine diamonds. (Carbuncle was term popular in
Victorian times to describe a cabochon-cut almandine
garnet.) The
ring’s estimated worth was $1,200-$1,500. It sold for $33,350. And
if, like me, you love the luscious deep red and purple stones, there
was stunning necklace of graduated, smooth pear-shaped amethyst
drops, spaced with gold beads and gold roundelles, the sort of thing
I imagine a goddess might wear. Estimated at $1,500-$2,000, it sold
for $57,500. One of the loveliest pieces in the catalog—and one that
stands quite alone in its poignancy-- is a kunzite and diamond ring,
which President Kennedy bought for his wife but never gave her. The
pink faceted kunzite is a cushion-shaped stone, with a weight of
approximately 47.00 karats, surrounded by twenty round diamonds and
set in 18-karat gold. Clear, sparkling, and extraordinary, it seems
to be a reflection of the woman herself. The ring’s estimated worth
was $6,000-$8,000. It sold for $415,000.
The Fashion Jewelry
Not everyone realizes that while Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis owned
and wore some of the finest gems in the world, she was also a great
fan of costume jewelry. Many of the classic photographs of her show
her wearing what were then relatively inexpensive costume pieces.
It’s The Fashion Jewelry section of the catalog that features many
of the strands of faux pearls that she made so famous.
The first “fashion jewel” in the catalog is the triple strand of
faux pearls with an Art Deco style clasp that Mrs. Kennedy wore in
the White House. The photograph of the necklace is accompanied by a
1962 shot of Jackie holding her then two-year-old son. He’s playing
with a strand of the necklace as she tilts her head back, laughing.
It’s a tender photograph, an almost idyllic glimpse of motherhood.
This famous necklace was estimated at $500-$700, a low-ball price
even if the pearls were made of paste. It sold for $211,500.
Though Jackie wore costume jewelry, a good deal of it was designer
costume jewelry. There’s a signed Valentino brooch in the shape of a
large crab with a faux topaz body and faux pavé diamond legs; a gilt
metal cross by Christian Lacroix; simple “silvered metal balls” earclips by Yves Saint Laurent; and faux emerald and diamond
earclips by Chanel.
One of the things that becomes clear from the catalog photographs
was that Jackie had no qualms about wearing costume jewelry for even
the most important occasions. There’s a photo of her speaking with
France’s President Charles de Gaulle, during the Kennedys’ 1961 trip
to Paris. Mrs. Kennedy is wearing a simple white dress and what
Sotheby’s describes as a “black ‘stone’ bead double strand
necklace.” She also wore this necklace on the day her husband
announced his candidacy and while they were in the White House. It
wasn’t a fancy piece, and I’m guessing the beads were made of glass,
but somehow it accented her white dress perfectly. Sold with a
single black earclip (the other earring must have gone missing), the
set was estimated as being worth $200-$300. A true piece of history,
it sold for $101,500.
The catalog also offers two pairs of earrings, shaped to look like
miniature conch shells. One pair, little pearlescent conches with
gilt accents, was designed by Kenneth Jay Lane, who was known for
his fabulous fakes. Jackie is shown wearing them in 1967 as she and
Caroline gazed at the naval carrier, The U.S.S. John F. Kennedy,
which Caroline had just christened. This pair of earclips, along
with a second pair in a similar design, were estimated at $400-$600
and sold for $25,300. Other pieces were not quite so historic and
yet carried Jackie’s charm. An ebony and ivory beaded necklace along
with two ivory cuff bracelets and a pair of ivory cabochon earrings
were estimated at $500-$700 and sold for $14,950. A choker made of
four twisted strands of gold pearls, black pearls, and round crystal
beads—all simulated— along with a pair of faux pearl earclips, was
estimated at $150-$250 and sold for $17,250. Another necklace, a
single strand of fake hematite beads with gilt roundels had an
estimated worth of $150-$250 and sold for $13,800. Two strands of
melon-shaped green glass beads—on Jackie, they probably were assumed
to be emeralds--along with a pair of earrings, were valued at
$300-$400 and sold for $20,700.
Kenneth Jay Lane has made a career of designing opulent fakes for
the well-heeled set. Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Diana
Vreeland, and the Duchess of Windsor were among his famous clients
in the sixties. Now he continues to sell his pieces to celebrities
such as Sarah Jessica Parker, Mischa Barton, the Olsen twins, and
Paris Hilton. Even Barbara Bush wore his triple-strand faux pearls
when she was in the White House.
Lane successfully studied and adapted earlier styles and traditions
in jewelry, and designed more-than-respectable knock-offs of Indian,
Renaissance, Art Deco, Chinese jade, and pre-Columbian jewelry.
Among the pieces he created for Jackie was a choker that looks for
all the world like one of India’s extraordinary Mughal pieces. If
you didn’t know better, you’d swear the gilt was gold and it was set
with rubies, emeralds, topaz, and diamonds. Its estimated value was
$300-$400. Even though several stones were missing, it sold for
$9,775.
Though Lane was often considered a prince of excess, much of what he
designed for Jackie was in her distinct style, simple yet classy.
One pair of earrings, a variant of the classic gold hoop, seem to be
made of curved pieces of gilt bamboo wound with tiny faux diamonds.
The coordinating necklace featured what looked like golden (i.e.
gilt) bamboo twigs linked with strands of simulated pearls. The set,
which was estimated at $200-$300, sold for $10,350. Torsade is a
term that describes a necklace or bracelet made of multiple strands
of beads twisted together. Jackie had a truly gorgeous torsade of
faux black seed pearls, with a gilt clasp covered with faux
diamonds, signed by Mimi di Niscemi, another internationally known
designer of costume jewelry.
Kenneth Jay Lane created earrings to match, black baroque “pearls,”
topped with “diamond” pavé. This set was estimated at $400-$500 and
sold for $20,700. The final jewelry offering in the catalog is a
Kenneth Jay Lane set with a story behind it. The two pieces are
reproductions of the Van Cleef & Arpels wedding necklace and ruby
earrings that were given to Jackie by Aristotle Onassis.
Interestingly, they’re not identical reproductions; Lane’s designs
show slight differences. In the original necklace’s pendant, the big
ruby cabochon has diamonds and emeralds beneath it. The colored
stones beneath the copy’s “ruby” are not “emeralds” but “rubies.”
The “gold and diamond” pattern around the gems is also somewhat
different, but Lane faithfully captured the extravagant and colorful
style. Sotheby’s write up quotes Lane who says that Jackie
specifically commissioned these pieces from him. She was,
apparently, taken a back when he told her what the design cost would
be, and so they agreed that he’d absorb the cost of making the model
if he could use the design in his own collection. Apparently, Jackie
was quite amused when she later saw their necklace used on Dynasty.
With the matching faux ruby earrings, the Lane reproduction was
valued at $1,000-$1,500. It sold for $90,500.
Looking over the collection as a whole, you can draw certain
conclusions. Jackie’s jewelry was an eclectic mix, encompassing
almost every style—from African to Thai to Classical Revival to
Renaissance to the jewels of Ancient India to the late twentieth
century. She had gems from the world’s finest jewelers and an
equally extensive collection of costume jewelry. And she had the
boldness, or perhaps just the confidence in her own good taste, to
wear it all. Simplicity seemed to be key to her singular style.
Though she owned many parures, or suites of matching jewelry, she’d
often only wear one piece, which somehow looked all the more
dramatic for being her sole ornament.
Page 302 of the catalog shows a classic photo of Mrs. Onassis
attending a gala for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume
Institute in 1979. She’s wearing a dark strapless gown with no
necklace or bracelets, just the dazzling ruby and diamond earrings
that Aristotle Onassis gave her for their wedding. And as she does
in almost all the photographs, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis conveys
beauty and elegance and inimitable grace. One final thought: The
extraordinary jewels that fill the Sotheby catalog are the gems her
family didn’t want. Just imagine what they kept. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ruby Gemstone Beads |
Color: oxide
Mohs’ hardness: 9
Transparency: Opaque, translucent, transparent
Luster: Vitreous to adamantine
Fracture: Small, conchoidal, uneven, splintery, brittle
Crystal system: Hexagonal (trigonal); hexagonal prisms or tablets, rhombohedrons
Cleavage: None
Specific gravity: 3.97-4.05
Refractive index: 1.766-1.774
Dispersion: 0.018
Pleochroism: Strong; yellow-red, deep ruby-red
Fluorescence: Strong; ruby-red
Occurrence: Worldwide
Astrology: July birthstone, also connected with Cancer, Aries, Aquarius, Capricorn, and Scorpio
Chakra: 1st (root) and 4th (heart)
Ruby is the gem variety of red corundum. It occurs in metamorphic rocks, like crystalline limestone, dolomites, and dolomitic calcite marbles, as well as in the contact zones between igneous and metamorphic rocks. Rubies are also found as pebbles in rivers and streams, though natural ruby is not a glittering crystal. Rather it’s usually rough and opaque and even a little greasy. It’s only through cutting and polishing that its true gem nature is revealed.
Ruby’s name comes from the Latin ruber, meaning red. It’s red color comes from trace amounts of chromium; brown rubies contain iron as well. Myanmar (formerly Burma) is the source of the world’s finest rubies, those whose color is called “pigeon’s blood,” a very pure red with just a hint of blue. Bright red stones are also found in Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Vietnam, and Thailand is the main source for brownish-red rubies. Sapphires are also corundum, but instead of the ruby’s trace amounts of chromium, blue sapphires contain trace amounts of iron and titanium. Both ruby and sapphire can contain minute rutile inclusions; if the stone is cut as a cabochon, these inclusions can produce either a cat’s eye effect, or if the rutile filiments are oriented at the proper angles, a star-effect. Next to diamond, corundum is the hardest natural substance.
The Sanskrit name for ruby, kurvindai, and the Tamil name, kurandam are the sources for corundum. But another Sanksirt word for ruby, ratnaraj, which means “lord of precious stones” gives us a clue to how highly valued the gem has always been. The Romans called ruby (and also some garnets) carbunculus or “glowing ember.” In fact, rubies have been confused with both garnets and red spinel throughout history.
According to India’s Vedic lore, all gems originally came from the demon Vala. When Vala was slain, rubies appeared wherever the drops of his blood fell to Earth. This blood origin led to the Ayurvedic belief that rubies could heal blood disorders and heart trouble. In general they were connected with life and heat and energy. Hindu lore states that the ruby’s brilliant color comes from an internal fire that can never be hidden or extinguished.
The Ayuvedic system divided rubies into different castes, each caste of stones having a different color and powers. The Brahmin rubies, which were rose-colored, were said to beneficial to rulers. Other rubies were believed to destroy darkness or keep one safe from enemies or fire. At the same time, it was believed that defective rubies—those that scratched easily or lost their brightness (which perhaps were not rubies at all) could cause loss of friends and wealth.
In Burma, source of some of the world’s most extraordinary rubies, the gem was said to grant the power of invisibility and to be a talisman of good fortune. Burmese warriors used to embed rubies in their flesh, believing the stones make them invulnerable to any weapon.
In Europe in the 13th century, a ruby cast in water was supposed to be able to make the water boil. They were also considered stones that could dispel airborne toxins. Some rubies (and spinels) fluoresce, and so this was used as a means of identification: If a red stone glowed in the dark, it was ruby.
It seems rubies have always been desired by kings and queens, but rubies were not always what the royals got. Because the stone was often confused with garnet and spinel, most of the major crown jewels that were originally believed to be rubies, actually turned out to be spinel. And quite a few regal objects, such as the magnificent diadem of Queen Theresa of Bavaria, which was commissioned her husband King Ludwig in 1830, combined rubies and spinels. This royal lack of rubies is probably due to two facts: 1) large gem-quality rubies are rare; and 2) although the finest rubies came from Burma, very few were actually allowed to leave the country. In Burma, all large gems technically belonged to the king, and to take one of the king’s gems was to risk execution.
Nevertheless, the quest and lust for rubies has never ebbed. Queen Alexandra, who was Queen Victoria’s daughter-in-law, loved the glowing red gems so much that she had all of Victoria’s precious opal jewelry reset with rubies. Elizabeth Taylor’s collection includes an extraordinary set of diamond and ruby pieces—necklace, earrings, and bracelet-- from Cartier, as well as a pin in the shape of a galloping horse. The horse’s head, mane, legs and tail are all diamond pavй, but its body is set with rubies.
Of course, a few genuinely large rubies have been found, including the Rosser-Reeves ruby, currently at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C., which is a star ruby about the size of a walnut that weighs 138 carats. The Smithsonian also holds the Carmen Lъcia Ruby, a 23.10 carat faceted Burmese ruby set in a dazzling ring.
Metaphysically, ruby is a stone of abundance. Its dynamic energy is said to increase courage, a positive mindset, and one’s passion for life. It’s used to stimulate both the root and heart chakras and is considered a protection against psychic attacks, in particular, psychic vampirism. Its intense “life force” has also been said to counter exhaustion and lethargy, and encourage social interaction and sexuality.
In magical traditions, ruby is stone that strengthens the psychic defenses and counters all forms of negativity. It was believed to be a protection against poverty, famine, and all evil spirits. Touched to the four corners of a house then set inside, a ruby was said to protect against lightning. It was also worn during magical rites to increase the magician’s power. Star rubies were believed to contain spirits.
To bead with rubies is to work with a deep rich, beauty. The classic combinations are rubies and pearls; rubies, sapphires, and pearls; and rubies and emeralds. Red rubies will also look absolutely stunning when set off against tanzanite and/or pink tourmaline, as well as green garnets. The brown rubies have a quieter beauty, and they work well when combined with citrine or golden topaz or smoky quartz—or for contrast, turquoise. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Moonstone Gemstone Beads |
Color: Colorless, yellow, pale sheen; rainbow moonstone has blue sheen
Chemical composition: K(AlSi3O8) potassium aluminum silicate
Mohs’ hardness: 6-6 ½
Transparency: Turbid, transparent
Luster: Vitreous
Fracture: Uneven, conchoidal
Crystal system: Monoclinic; prismatic
Cleavage: Perfect
Specific gravity: 2.56-2.62
Refractive index: 1.522-1.530
Dispersion: 0.012
Pleochroism: None
Fluorescence: Weak; bluish, orange
Occurrence: Australia, Brazil, India, Malagasy Republic, Mexico, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, United States
Astrology: September birthstone (Ayurvedic), and connected with the moon, Gemini, and the month of June
Chakra: 2nd (sacral) and 3rd (solar plexus)
Moonstone, a feldspar, is known for its moonlike opalescent sheen. This sheen, which mineralogists call adularescence or schiller, is caused by light scattering or reflecting off microscopic layers of albite and feldspar crystal plates inside the stone, which are parallel to the surface. Thicker layers of albite give a white “schiller”; thinner layers, a blue. The stone is usually cut as a cabochon, and will sometimes have a cat’s eye effect or rainbows. Occasionally, moonstones are carved, as in cameos.
Of all the mineral groups, feldspar is the most widespread on the planet and occurs in igneous, metamorphic and sedimentary rocks. In general, feldspars crystallize from cooling molten rock. The finest moonstone is found in Sri Lanka, Myanmar, and India. Labrodorite, Amazonite, Oregon Sunstone, and Aventurine (sunstone) are also part of the feldspar group; moonstone is the most valuable of these feldspar gems.
In India, moonstone has long been regarded as sacred. It’s said that moonstone grows under the influence of the moon, and as it forms, it absorbs the moon’s magical powers. The Sanskrit name for moonstone is chandrakanta mani (Chandra is one of the names for the moon, kanta means light, and mani means jewel). Indian tradition holds that this moonlight gem helps us befriend the moon, and that the stone itself symbolizes the Third Eye, or enlightenment. In Ayurvedic medicine, moonstone is used to influence the body’s magnetic field, a clear connection to the moon’s gravitational influence on the Earth.
Moonstone is considered the “National Stone of Sri Lanka.” Anuradhapura, the first capital of Sri Lanka (previously Ceylon), was known for its “moonstone temple,” whose altar steps were said to be decorated with shimmering mosaics made of moonstone. Although the ruins of this temple still exist, none of the moonstone remains. As for the stone’s origins, according to Ceylonese legend, every 37th year the sea, under the influence of the moon, hurls opalescent blue moonstones onto the shores of the island.
The Romans used moonstone in their jewelry as early as 100 A.D. A great deal of the lore about moonstone seem to be based on the writings of the Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder. It was Pliny who recorded the belief that the moonstone contains the image of the moon, and as the actual moon waxes and wanes, the image in the stone mirrors it. This link between the moonstone and lunar cycles, made the stone a popular talisman for women, who wore it as an aid in fertility, pregnancy, and childbirth. Since it was connected with the lunar goddesses, Isis, Selene, and Diana—it was believed that Diana’s image could be glimpsed in the stone--moonstone amulets were hung in fruit trees to assure fertile crops. Interestingly, moonstones—often paired with opals-- became very popular during the 1890s and early 1900s in Art Nouveau jewelry, much of which harkened back to the classical world. In the Far East, moonstone was once believed to be made of solidified moonlight. The glimmering light inside it was thought to be a good spirit who lived inside the stone.
In Venice, during the Renaissance, the moonstone was considered a stone of prophecy. It was believed that if you held the stone up to the waning or Crone’s moon, you would see a vision of the future in it. During the waxing moon, the stone was said to excite lovers’ passions, especially if held under the tongue. Known as “the traveler’s stone,” moonstone is said to be a protection for travelers, especially those swimming in the ocean.
One famous piece of jewelry that incorporates moonstones is a tiara that Ernst Louis, Grand Duke of Hesse, gave as a Christmas present to his wife in 1906. The tiara, now in the Victoria and Albert Museum, combines turquoise, representing true love, diamonds for eternity, and moonstone for innocence.
Metaphysically, moonstone is considered a stone of balance, especially in regard to the emotions. Working gently, it’s a soothing stone, believed to be good for stress. Moonstone is also strongly connected to the unconscious, a stone that strengthens empathy, intuition, and psychic abilities.
Moonstones look especially beautiful with celestite, opals, blue topaz, blue chalcedony, amethyst, and sapphires. A perfect, almost mystical, pairing is moonstone and the darker, equally opalescent, labradorite. For contrast, try moonstone with onyx, garnet, and clear crystal. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Tanzanite Gemstone Beads |
Color: Sapphire-blue, amethyst, violet
Chemical composition: Ca2Al3 (O/OH/SiO4/SiO2) calcium aluminium silicate
Mohs’ hardness: 6 ½-7
Transparency: Transparent
Luster: Vitreous
Fracture: Uneven, brittle
Crystal system: Orthorhombic, multi-faceted prisms, mostly striated
Cleavage: Perfect
Specific gravity: 3.35
Refractive index: 1.691-1.700
Dispersion: 0.030
Pleochroism: Very strong; violet, blue, brown
Fluorescence: None
Occurrence: East Africa (Tanzania)
Astrology: recently designated a December birthstone
Chakra: 6th (third eye) and 7th (crown)
Tanzanite, named for the country of its origin, is the transparent dark blue to blue-violet gem variety of the mineral zoisite. Because it is only found on one place on earth, it’s considered rarer than diamonds. Tanzanite is known for its strong pleochroism: Depending on the direction of the light, its color changes from amethyst to violet-blue to brown. Most tanzanite is heat-treated so that only the rich blue color--which comes from trace amounts of vanadium—remains. The finest tanzanite is mostly blue with violet accents. Officially “discovered” in 1967, tanzanite is considered one of the newest gemstones, yet because its source is so limited—a narrow piece of land near Kilimanjaro--some geologists estimate that the world’s supply of tanzanite could be depleted within 15 years.
Tanzanite formed approximately 585 million years ago in the veins or fissures of gneiss and metamorphic rock in the volcanoes that surround Mount Kilimanjaro. The identity of the person who first “discovered” tanzanite remains the subject of heated debate, but the most widely known version of the story begins in July 1967 with a Masai herdsman finding some of the violet-blue crystal in the metamorphic rocks of the Merelani Hills, and bringing it to an amateur prospector named Manuel d’Souza. D’Souza, a tailor from Goan, India, who was living in Arusha at the time, thought the crystal might be sapphire and sent it to Dr. John Saul for identification. Saul, a Nairobi geologist and a gem dealer, had never seen anything like it. He sent it on to a lab in Germany, which identified it as zoisite. Saul then cut the first two tanzanite gems—large oval stones—and sent them to his father in New York, who happened to be the vice president of Saks 5th Avenue. Saks, at that time, was next door to the famed jeweler, Tiffany’s. Henry Platt, Tiffany’s director, immediately became interested, declaring this new variety of zoisite to be “the most beautiful blue stone discovered in over 2,000 years.” Platt, though, realized that the name zoisite sounded a little too similar to the noun suicide, and that marketing the stone would be far easier if it had a more evocative name. It was Platt who renamed the blue zoisite tanzanite and began to sell it in Tiffany’s in 1968. Yet despite Tiffany’s interest, the gem was almost impossible to get. A combination of factors--disputed mining stakes, politics, poor management of the mines, and the murder of d’Souza—resulted in tanzanite’s availability being highly erratic until 1997 when Mike Nunn, a South African entrepreneur, took over the mine. Strangely, tanzanite became popular with the film Titanic, when it was mistakenly identified as the Heart of Ocean “sapphire” that’s hurled into the sea. There were also reports in 2001 that linked tanzanite with al-Queda financing--American jewelers temporarily stopped selling the stone—but these reports were found to be false, and tanzanite is now taking its rightful place as a luminous and precious gem.
Metaphysically, tanzanite is considered a “stone of magic” that can connect the wearer with the spirits of the ancients. It’s also said to helpful in communicating psychic visions and in encounters with beings from other planes.
Often compared to sapphire because of its rich blue, tanzanite is actually quite a bit softer on Mohs’ scale – a 6 ½ vs. sapphire’s 9-- yet it’s surprisingly resistant to scratching. However, the stone is brittle and can chip, so if you use the beads in a bracelet, wear it with care.
Tanzanite beads are spectacular when paired with black opal. They’re also lovely with pearls, rubies, emeralds, rubellite, garnet, and peridot. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Fluorite |
Color: Colorless, red, orange, yellow,
green, blue, violet, nearly black
Chemical composition: CaF2 calcium fluoride
Mohs’ hardness: 4
Transparency: Transparent, translucent
Luster: Vitreous
Fracture: Even to conchoidal, brittle
Crystal system: Isometric; cubes, octahedra
Cleavage: Perfect
Specific gravity: 3.18
Refractive index: 1.434
Dispersion: 0.007
Pleochroism: None
Fluorescence: Usually strong; blue-violet
Occurrence: Canada, China, England, France, Germany, Italy, Mexico,
Peru, Russia, South Africa, Thailand, United States
Astrology: Pisces and Capricorn
Chakra: 6th (brow or 3rd eye) for violet fluorite
Fluorite
is a fairly common and affordable stone that naturally occurs in a
dazzling range of colors. In some cases – often with purple and
green – the colors occur in bands. Fluorite wasn’t traditionally
considered gemstone because it’s relatively soft and easily
scratched or chipped. Originally called fluorspar, its name comes
from the Latin word fleure meaning to flow, because fluorite melts
easily; it’s used as flux in the smelting of ores. It commonly
fluoresces under ultra-violet light. Fluorites origins trace back
150 to 200 million years ago when hot water containing fluorine and
other minerals was forced up from deep inside the Earth. This
solution eventually reached calcium-rich limestone bedrock where the
fluorite crystals formed. The mineral is found in Alpine clefts and
in hydrothermal veins, often around hot springs, in masses of
interpenetrating cubes and octahedral crystals; when broken it often
forms perfect triangular shapes on the corners of the crystals.
Although
fluorite wasn’t considered a precious gem, it was known and
valued in ancient times. The Ancient Egyptians carved fluorites
statues and scarabs, and the Chinese also used it in carvings.
Gemologists now believe that fluorite has been in use throughout
human history but wasn’t recognized as a separate mineral. Instead,
it was believed that fluorite was simply a softer version of other
minerals – i.e. a violet fluorite crystal was just a soft amethyst.
In fact, the Romans carved cups of purple-banded fluorite believing
that like amethyst, the purple fluorite would keep them from
becoming intoxicated. In the 1600s powdered fluorite was believed to
ease the symptoms of kidney disease. In 18th-century England, Blue
John (a purple banded fluorite) became popular as a material for
urns, vases, and even tables. From the time of the Ancient
Egyptians, there have been records of “luminous” stones, which were
greatly valued by priests and shamans.
It’s now believed that these were stones that we now identify as
phosphorescent or
fluorescent.
Frederick W. Kunz, the famous mineralogist, noted that chlorophane,
which is a pale violet Siberian fluorite, gave off white light when
warmed by the heat of a hand, green light when heated in boiling
water, and when set on a burning coal, gave off a light that could
be seen from a distance. Metaphysically, fluorite is considered a
stone that aids in discernment and organization, a kind of antidote
to chaos. Psychically, it’s said to help you determine whether or
not you’re being influenced by outside forces and to cut through any
sort of illusion. It’s also believed to help concentration,
especially in learning. It is considered one of the great psychic
protectors, as well as a stone that cleanses the aura and can help
to open the third eye. Green fluorite is known to a healing stone,
while purple is said to to be a stone that strengthens intuition.
Fluorite beads are somewhat fragile, and so are recommended for
earrings and necklaces. If you use them in bracelets or anklets,
wear them carefully because they’re vulnerable to chipping and
cracking. The clear and purple banded beads will look lovely when
strung with amethyst and clear crystal. For contrast, try stringing
fluorite with malachite, sugilite, and/or smoky quartz. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Coral Gemstone Beads |
Fossil coral was once the skeleton of a coral polyps whose organic structure has been transformed to stone. After the coral died, the skeleton became saturated with water that contained dissolved silica, the same mineral that is the principal component of quartz, chalcedony, agate, and jasper. In this case, the silica replaced the coral’s soft tissues and filled its cavities. Because the skeleton was encased in silica, oxygen couldn’t get to it, and it didn’t completely deteriorate. You can still see the traces of its structure in the fossilized gem. The different colors that you see in fossil coral come from the different minerals that existed in the silica solutions, which usually harden into a chalcedony or agate. (For a list of physical characteristics, please see Agate.)
Fossil coral is also known as agatized coral, Indonesian coral, and Indonesian jasper.
Fossil corals are found throughout the world in sedimentary rocks. Many of these corals originally lived between 215 and 340 million years ago. In the United States, fossil coral has been found in Kansas, Pennyslvania, Kentucky, and West Virginia where it has been named the State Gemstone. It’s also found in Indonesia.
Fossil coral comes in a range of gentle colors: tans, greys, pinks, yellows, browns, and occasionally red. There’s also a fair amount of variety in the pattern which can range from a banded effect that almost looks as if it’s been painted on with watercolors to the distinctive flower and starburst patterns.
There isn’t much lore—either historical or metaphysical—about fossil coral. Some healers use it to draw toxins from the body and psyche. Since it’s primarily a chalcedony—or microcrystalline quartz—it shares the metaphysical qualities assigned to agate and jasper, as well as some qualities ascribed to fossils: It will help counter old mental and emotional patterns, allowing the wearer to open to innovation and fresh ideas. Fossil coral is also said to be a stone of both balance and stability that helps one integrate memories of the past and past lives into the present.
Fossil coral beads, being chalcedony, are fairly tough, with a hardness of 7, so you can safely bead them into any sort of jewelry. Our fossil coral beads come in beautiful shades of browns and pinks and greys, and will look lovely when combined with smoky quartz and ametrine. For contrast, try beading them with the green or grey or even red jaspers. |
|
|
|
|
|
|